The phantom wall due to its hidden nature in the confines of a lower fork of the tokositna had been overlooked completely not easily visible from any vantage point.
Mount huntington phantom wall.
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The west wall of mount huntington from the tokositna glacier.
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The route was only worthy to be climbed in its entirety.
Call it what you want.
Looking up the crux pitches on the phantom wall.
Here s the skinny on our climb of the southwest face of huntington.
Or perhaps it was because of the approach required to reach its start 2000 feet below base camp the closest available landing strip.
The west face couloir is prominent snow ice ramp sloping up the center.
The harvard route follows up the arĂȘte just to the right joining the west face couloir route at the top of the ramp.
The death valley is far below.
Then the next rappel took us to a japanese fixed line bleached white and stiff over the years backed up by a marginal 0 5 tri cam.
Back to villa wall.
Pitch three of the phantom wall.
The first time paul and i saw a picture of huntington s southwest face we d just stopped in for a beer at lake tahoe s sugar bowl lounge with dave nettle and kevin haddok.
The third ascent of the phantom wall a new variation or a new bail whatever it was incredible.
The elusive phantom wall as we christened it floated in and out of the mists beckoning us to return.
The upper half of the phantom wall is just visible to the right of the harvard route.
I just climbed the southwest face of mount huntington in the alaska range with clint helander.
After a day of ice climbing we were jawing off about other great days we d had.
Below us the tremendous south face the phantom wall yawned for thousands of feet into the dark and chaotic depths of the lower tokositna glacier.
This is one of the most prominent lines in the entire range comparable in length and difficulty with the moonflower buttress.
The french ridge arises from the foreground.
Or perhaps it was because of the approach required to reach its start 2000 feet below base camp the closest available landing strip.
Traversing above the bergschrund with the isis face and denali in the morning alpenglow.
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Helander said he first noticed huntington s south ridge in 2013 when he climbed the phantom wall on the mountain and then later took a flight seeing tour of the alaska range with his family.
Clint gaining the upper park on the harvard route.